We would highly recommend a stay at Libellule in Neffiès - an experience 'out of time'
Our first visit to the south of France was a truly memorable experience, beginning with the discovery of Libellule, a renovated vacation rental in the village of Neffiès. Reviews from previous tenants and the informative website suggested a quiet location, local ambiance, and an accommodation that retained a great deal of rustic charm, while providing for modern comforts. It was indeed everything promised, an intimate and accessible example of an unofficial ‘belle village’ complete with historical remnants dating to the middle ages. The Canadian owners were wonderful, providing us with invaluable information about the area and Libellule, making us feel welcome and at home in their petite maison. Marie Hélène, the local caretaker proved a treasure, offering suggestions for local activities and markets for us to enjoy.
Here the gentle, cultivated countryside unfolds in a bucolic impression, vineyards spilling in neat rows from each side of the road, strewn with a blush of poppies amongst the grasses of the verges and in the fields. Stone walls and buildings of considerable age exude an air of ‘since forever’. The quintessential experience of driving through the avenues of stately plane trees heralded our arrival, each a curving line of poetry, canted ever so slightly to the will of the prevailing winds. The tiny village charmed at every turn of the narrow road leading up into the village square, its ivy covered tower of medieval provenance, the fountain installed in a ‘7embre’ of a year centuries ago. Voluptuous roses, springing from impossibly small spots of earth, bloomed vividly against the yellow stuccoed or rock walls of the houses.
Large keys opened an ancient door to an equally ancient set of stairs. Ascending with care, we bypassed the lower level where the family horse and grape press were once sequestered. On the upper levels, plastered walls were artfully scalloped to showcase the original stone of the walls and exposed timbers pleased the eye. The kitchen and washrooms were clean and well equipped. The beds were comfy and the rooftop terrace proved a lovely retreat. An exploration of the narrow lanes and shuttered homes of the village radiating outward from the church revealed the proximity of gastronomical delights at the épicerie, boulangerie, L’Echampette, the bistro-pub, and La Goutille, the exceptional first class restaurant. All felt friendly and safe. Many delights awaited us in our ventures further afield - another chapter! …